Berlin’s Detlev Rohwedder Haus – Home of Hermann Goering’s Air Ministry and Luftwaffe
Echoes of Extremes Berlin is a city of contrasts, a place of constant transformation, where monuments built by one regime are reinterpreted and repurposed by the next. But in the heart of the city stands a building that takes Berlin’s signature irony to a whole new level. This is the Detlev Rohwedder Haus, once the […]
Barnimstrasse 10; Forgotten Women’s Prison in the Heart of Berlin
Lessons on Freedom, Resistance, and Repression Berlin hides many of its secrets in plain sight, and if you know where to look, you can uncover places that provoke deep reflection. In our own current day, we’re wrestling with what it means to be free people. Who gets to decide what freedom is and what it […]
Beyond the Facade: Uncovering Alexanderplatz’s Stories, part 3
Today we’ll complete our excursion around Alexanderplatz. Let’s start by looking at a building very much overlooked by visitors, but which shouldn’t be. Berliner Verlag The building is located at 29 Karl Liebknecht Strasse and was the headquarters for the Berliner Verlag, or publishing house, which put out the daily newspaper «The Berliner Zeitung,» which […]
Alexanderplatz: From DDR Pride to Modern Consumerism Part Two
This is Part Two of the Alexanderplatz Series. If you missed part one, you can read it here. Let’s continue our trip around the majestic, if often misunderstood and underappreciated, Alexanderplatz, the beating heart of the city for the last two hundred years. The former Centrum Warenhaus We’ll pick up this week by looking at […]
Alexanderplatz Uncovered: The Hidden History Behind Berlin’s Bustling Square (1)
Where else but in Berlin can you find the city’s busiest square and still, with good reason, describe it as «off the beaten path?» Berlin´s busiest Square, but off the beaten Path The city’s Alexanderplatz fits this odd description perfectly. It’s Berlin’s largest and busiest square and yet most visitors don’t quite know what to […]
Mauerpark: Where History and Recreation Collide in Berlin’s Former Death Strip
Picture a place where you can play football, browse a flea market, catch a live sporting event, and enjoy a barbecue all in one day. This probably wasn’t too much of a task, you very likely just imagined your local park. But now, imagine doing all of this on the very ground where two bitterly […]
Discover Berlin’s Essence: The One Spot That Unveils the City’s True Character
Berlin’s character, like the characters of the people who live here, can surprise and often intrigues those who visit. People come here looking for one thing, and often find another. This element of the unexpected, this complex laying of identity and meaning, is one of the things that most attracts, and sometimes repels, those who […]
Reflecting at Friedrichstrasse Station: A Journey Through Time and Tears
Last week, we explored the history haunted Bahnhof Friedrichstrasse, and saw how vital a role the station ended up playing the history of Berlin, and by extension in the history of Europe. So today let’s jump in a bit deeper and see what there is to explore today in Europe’s most interesting train station. Palace […]
Friedrichstrasse Station: Berlin’s Gateway to History, Intrigue, and International Espionage
When is a train station more than just a mundane bit of transportation infrastructure?Well, when it’s in Berlin, of course! When you travel to the German capital, you have endless opportunities to reflect on how world changing events sometimes occur in the most bewilderingly ordinary of places, locations you’d likely travel through without ever noticing […]
Berlin’s Lesser-Known Border Crossing Sites, not just Checkpoint Charlie
Checkpoint Charlie, Overrated? I’ll come right out and say it. Checkpoint Charlie is overrated. At least, in its current incarnation as an over-touristed location completely robbed of any interpretative value it might have had. Pretty much everything a modern visitor sees there now is fake, some of it outrageously bad, and much of the area […]
The German Resistance Memorial Center
Berlin attracts seekers, and many of those who visit the German capital come in search of the past. They come to understand this city of contrasts and perhaps to connect what happened «then» with things that still matter today. Berlin is full of places from which you can sit and contemplate these things, but few […]
The Paradoxes of the Berlin Wall
Berlin has always been a city of paradoxes and contrasts, and nowhere is more poignant in that regard than the various sites of the Berlin Wall. Note that capital letter. For nearly three decades, it wasn’t just any wall, nor simply a wall—it was The Wall, a barrier so singular and significant that it seemed […]
Schöneberg Town Hall where John F. Kennedy told the Berliners and World: «Ich bin ein Berliner»
In Berlin, history can rip around the city’s landmarks like a deadly tornado, blasting its violent imprint onto the city’s buildings before suddenly veering off, leaving a trail of destruction in its wake. The violent and dramatic events of the 20th century twisted and turned seemingly with no clear destination, only to eventually lose force […]
Exploring the Weidendamm Bridge in Central Berlin
When you travel to Berlin, or anywhere really, you’ll probably spend most of your time visiting museums, attending shows or eating at well known restaurants. It’s unlikely you’ll focus much, if any, of your attention on the infrastructure of the city, those essential nuts and bolts that hold the town together and keep it running. […]
Public Transport: Berlin Through Its Historic Train Lines
The old Imperial Capital of the Empire, the Reichshauptstadt Berlin, became a true Welt Stadt, or World City by the 1920s, and what made this possible, in the most literal sense of the word, was the development and expansion of the public transport system. If you really want to understand Berlin, you have to ride […]
Walking Berlin’s Historic Ground Beats Just Reading About It
Why bother travelling to Berlin when you can just read about the history or culture online or in a book? Wouldn’t that be better, saving time and energy? What can you learn from being there, in other words, that you can’t learn from an online search sitting in your favorite coffee shop near your house?If […]
From Chicago to Berlin: My Journey As a Historian
People tend to find people interesting, and in that spirit some of you might be interested in learning more about me, the dear author of these posts. How, after all, did a kid with no particular advantages from a typical Chicago neighborhood end up working as a historian in Berlin? Horizons always gripped my imagination. […]
My Journey to Discovering Berlin’s Magic
The door to the sleeping compartment on the train from Krakow crashed open and a shouted voice barked out a warning. «Achtung! Berlin!» No sooner were the words launched at my travelling companion and me than the guard stalked off to repeat the procedure at the next room down the train car’s aisle. It was […]
Architect Peter Behrens: The Fascinating Journey of the Berolinahaus on Alexanderplatz
There’s little doubt that many people travel to Berlin to track down what remains from the city’s turbulent 20th century history. If you’re reading this blog, there’s an excellent chance you’re one of them! If you happen to be a first-time visitor, you might imagine that the best place to begin your exploration of the […]
Don’t Always Trust Google Reviews
Why Schönhausen Palace Deserves a Visit Despite Some Mediocre Ratings Can you REALLY trust Google reviews when you travel, especially if you’re traveling to see historical sites? This question is much deeper than offering us an opportunity to complain about modern technology and wonder about the extent to which reviews really are genuine. Many people […]
History of Italian Cuisine in Germany
The Italian one is today the most worldwide known cuisine and the strongest trend setter in the culinary field; it is at the top of the food rank when exporting products and recipes abroad. But how did this happen? After the Second World War, Italians started to move from Italy to either look for a […]
How Berlin’s Facades Reveal its Past
What do we owe the past? Among other things, we might owe the past a chance to speak for itself, yet that seemingly easy task is actually far more difficult than it might seem. Let’s take a quick walk through the streets of Berlin to see how this might be so. East Berlin, the former […]
From Power to Tranquility for DDR Leaders
From Power to Tranquility: Walking Through the DDR Leaders’ Enclave in BerlinWhen you visit Berlin, especially if it’s your first visit, you’ll naturally gravitate to the big sites. The Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag and the Museum Island are all must-sees. But if you really want to get a glimpse of the real Berlin, the city […]
What is the meaning of the stumbling stones
As the summer of 2024 looms before us, Berlin once again takes center stage as the «city of politics.» Many people come to visit the German capital to see sites associated with political movements which shaped the so-called Age of Extremes, as the 20th century has sometimes been called. But the elections of 2024, both […]
Berlin’s Hidden Memorials: The Sinking Wall and Its Dark Message
Strolling through Berlin’s less touristy areas means frequent encounters with reminders of the past and warnings for the future. It can be intoxicating and unnerving at the same time. It’s certainly never dull. A Haunting Memorial in Invalidenpark One such encounter, in the form of a little visited memorial, is located on Invalidenstrasse, not too […]
Tales from Belowground: Take a Trip to Berlin’s Past at Wittenbergplatz
What’s the first thing you do when you visit a new city?Most people look up.The skyscrapers, the architecture, the flashing signs and the elevated trains all command attention. And that makes sense, they’re certainly striking and a big part of what you came for.Berlin captures this experience, offering a sensory feast for the eyes and […]
A Delicious Lunch in a Restaurant with a Shocking Past
Recently, I went to an Italian restaurant. The food was good and I left satisfied a while later.Not, you might think, the most exciting story you’ve ever heard. Yet, this is a restaurant in Berlin, and far more than meets the eye lurks below the surface. Today, the place where I had lunch is called […]
Reading the Twin Narratives of Authority and Rebellion in Berlin’s Skyline
Berlin’s character, like the characters of the people who live here, can surprise and often intrigues those who visit. People come here looking for one thing, and often find another. This element of the unexpected, this complex laying of identity and meaning, is one of the things that most attracts, and sometimes repels, those who […]
Neighbourhoods and the Berliner «Kiez»
I spent several years in West Germany without observing the term «Kiez». However on my first visit to Berlin, after the reunification, I observed the term «Kiez» all over, and I wondered what does it mean? First I consulted Wikipedia:«Kiez is a German word for a city neighborhood, a relatively small community within a larger town. The word is mainly used […]
Neue Wache – The Memorial to the Victims of War and Dictatorship
Berlin has countless memorials and I have seen just a few of them. The most moving and impressing is Neue Wache, on Under den Linden, between Humbolt University and the Historical Museum. The official name of it is Central Memorial of the Federal Republic of Germany to the Victims of War and Dictatorship. // Gedenkstätte […]
Berlin Mitte
Whenever I travel somewhere I want to immediately go where the locals go and immerse myself in “real life”, but there is something to be said about spending at least a part of your holiday being the tourist that you are. After all, the tourists usually gravitate towards the areas of the city that are […]
Reasons to Love Berlin
Let’s face it, Berlin has a lot of flaws and if there is one thing that all Berliners have in common it’s that they LOVE to make fun of Berlin; the lack of flavor in the food, the fact that a lot of shops and restaurants still don’t accept credit cards, and the gray and […]
Prenzlauer Berg, Berlin
Berlin, a city teeming with diversity and history, boasts an array of neighborhoods, each with its unique character and charm. One such neighborhood that beckons both locals and visitors alike is Prenzlauer Berg, nestled on the north side of the Spree River. Often compared to Charlottenburg in the south, Prenzlauer Berg has carved out its […]
Schöneberg, Berlin
Schöneberg possesses a unique character and boasts a captivating, diverse history. It has been a residence for renowned intellectuals and artists such as Albert Einstein, Marlene Dietrich, David Bowie, and Iggy Pop. Over the centuries, it has transformed from a small village into an inner-city sanctuary for the middle and upper classes. The charming neighborhoods […]
Neukölln, Berlin
While Kreuzberg enjoys its reputation as Berlin’s «coolest» suburb, Neukölln takes a more understated approach. Situated in the southeastern part of the city, Neukölln boasts a significant immigrant population, particularly from the Middle East, which contributes to its unique character. Sonnennallee, one of Neukölln’s main streets, is permeated with the delightful aromas of shisha and […]
Charlottenburg, Berlin
Charlottenburg beckons to tourists with its rich historical landmarks, lavish museums and theaters, exquisite dining options, and fantastic shopping opportunities. While Kurfürstendamm, the chic tree-lined boulevard, may be the beating heart of modern Charlottenburg, there’s far more to this neighborhood than shopping and luxury. While the cool and creative crowd has left its mark, it’s […]
Wedding, Berlin
Wedding epitomizes the historical essence of Berlin, managing to preserve its character amidst the wave of gentrification that has engulfed many central neighborhoods in the city. Today, Wedding is a vibrant community, encompassing students, artists, low-income families, and individuals from diverse cultural backgrounds. This district stands out as one of Berlin’s most ethnically diverse areas, […]
Kreuzberg, Berlin
Kreuzberg is a constantly evolving entity. Once considered one of the city’s most impoverished districts within West Berlin, it has now become a densely populated epicenter of creative innovation in the heart of the city. Known globally for its alternative and progressive reputation, it attracts a diverse mix of residents and visitors alike. The prevailing […]
Unleash Your Inner Artist in Berlin
Berlin’s unofficial motto is poor but sexy, but I’d like to propose an amendment to this motto. I’d like to add the word “artsy” in there because this is one creative city. One merely has to walk around for a few minutes to notice all of the street art (legal and otherwise), interesting fashion choices […]
Friedrichshain, Berlin
Friedrichshain is a dynamic neighborhood at the crossroads of Berlin’s east and west. Once part of East Berlin, it now shares its territory with Kreuzberg to form the Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg borough. The iconic Oberbaumbrücke bridge gracefully spans the Spree River, connecting these two districts. In Friedrichshain, you’ll discover the contemporary pulse of Berlin, alive with fashion, […]
Berlin foodies, Bookworms, Music Lovers and Sporty Berliners
Maybe you just moved to Berlin and are now looking for less touristy things to do, or maybe you can’t stand techno and clubbing and are at a loss of how to spend your time in the gray drab city, or maybe, just maybe, you moved here a while ago but have since grown disenchanted […]
Mitte, Berlin
In the heart of Berlin, there’s a place that perfectly encapsulates the city’s rich history, its dynamic present, and its promising future – Mitte. The name itself, «Mitte,» translates to «in the middle of,» and if you were to stake a claim to the city’s center in the once-divided metropolis of Berlin, Mitte would likely […]
Trio of fun museums in Mitte, Berlin
Are you into museums? Well, we’ve got a few in Mitte, Berlin – offering something for everyone. Put away your gadgets and bring your family for some old-school fun. Go to Neue nationalgalerie 1. Neue nationalgalerie – 20th-century art Located at Potsdamer Str. 50, 10785 Mitte, Berlin, this place is a gem for 20th-century art […]
The 12 Hour Stopover
If you plan ahead you can be in the heart of the action within an hour of arriving in Berlin. Twelve hours is a great amount of time to get a sense of the city and decide what you will explore in more detail when you return next time! Here’s some suggestions on how to […]
Berlin Club Culture
I am going to be honest with you, it’s been a few years that I was involved in the nightlife scene of Berlin. “Back in my day we used to walk 100 miles in the snow for the monthly shindig.” Joking of course, I used to hail a horse-drawn carriage instead. Kidding again but imagine […]
One Night One Day
Everybody’s interests are different so personalising your tour with a few good suggestions is the best approach. Having more than a day to enjoy the city means you have time to absorb some neighbourhood atmosphere as well as the city’s most famous attractions. Berlin is very easy to navigate around and you can definitely choose […]
48 Hours in Berlin
Having a couple of days to explore makes a world of difference, It means you can relax over meals and do things that take a little more time, without feeling frantic. You can follow this itinerary exclusively, or take some ideas from the others and mix and match to your taste. Get yourself a couple of day […]
Getting Around Berlin
Moving to Berlin from the car-centric culture of the United States was a very welcomed paradigm shift for me. Getting around in Berlin via public transport, biking, and walking replaced my constant car worries (what the heck was that noise? gas prices are HOW much?, my car insurance payment is due AGAIN?) On the rare […]
Iteneraries, 3 to 5 Days
There is so much to see and do in the city, so the more time you have to enjoy it the better! A few days or more means not only do you get to see the sights at a relaxed pace, but you can also spend a whole day doing nothing in particular, but enjoying the […]
So you want to be a Berliner? Here Are Some Quirks You Should Be Aware Of. Part 2.
Welcome back to part two of the Quirky Berliner series where we aim to shine light on some of the quirks that make Berlin special so that you can quicken the time it takes to feel like a true Berliner. In the first article we discussed Berlin’s lack of free tap water and public toilets. […]