Since it’s the holiday season and a time of good cheer, I thought it would be fitting to share a few words about Berlin’s renowned Christmas markets. As regular readers might expect, this piece goes beyond the surface to explore some of the more fascinating and vibrant aspects of these cherished annual traditions. After all, who says good cheer and compelling stories can’t go hand in hand? So, let’s delve into Berlin’s past and uncover the rich history and unique spirit of its Christmas markets, combining the chill of winter with the warmth of festive joy!
From Medieval Roots to 19th-Century Traditions
The Christmas market tradition dates back centuries, to the later Middle Ages, when these markets provided an opportunity for townsfolk to stock up on winter provisions and festive goods. The first recorded Christmas market in Berlin appeared in the early 16th century, although I’m sure they had been going on before that. These earlier markets were modest by today’s standards, being primarily a place for local craftsmen and merchants to sell handmade goods and foodstuffs. The historically thrilling thing here is that many of Berlin’s modern Christmas markets still have something of that «local craftsmen’s» feel, with local vendors featuring throughout the venues.
By the 18th and 19th centuries, Berlin’s Christmas markets had evolved into grander events. They were often set up near prominent churches, such as the Nikolaikirche, to coincide with the religious celebrations. But it’s actually unclear if these markets had been set up FOR the religious holidays, or whether the markets held on the shortest days of the years happened to simply coincide with Christmas. Remember that much of what we consider to be traditional Christmas celebrations and attitudes really only date from the middle of the 19th century.
It was the Industrial Revolution that started to drive the development of the modern Christmas market. Cities grew, money become more widely available as a solid middle class emerged and the chance to earn good money while generating a festive mood was too good to miss.
The modern association of Christmas with commerce and politics also traces back to the 19th century. Christmas markets became increasingly popular among industrial workers and the middle class alike. By the late 19th century, however, these markets had gained a reputation for being somewhat dangerous and decidedly seedy. When grand department stores began to emerge around 120 years ago, they sought to eliminate the competition posed by the Christmas markets. These stores petitioned to move the markets to the outskirts of the city, a request that was granted. As a result, for several decades, Christmas markets were primarily located on the city’s fringes.
The Influence of Politics: Nazi Revivals and Post-War Transformations
Of all the unexpected people, it was none other than the Nazi party who breathed new life in the old Christmas market. They brought them back into the city center and heavily promoted them; by 1934 nearly a third of Berlin’s population of 4 million people had visited at least one of the Christmas markets. The reason Hitler’s people were so interested in reviving the market tradition was, of course, closely tied to their cultural and political programs. The Nazis invested heavily in the notion of a core, identifying «German heritage» which set them apart from other nations. The more «ye olde worlde» these traditions could be made to seem, the better. The idea was to instill in the population a cultural pride in German heritage and kindle a strong sense of belonging to a distinct community with clear traditions.
During the war, the markets were heavily scaled back, but staged a roaring return soon after the fall of the Nazi regime, stripped now of National Socialist motifs and political messaging. However, in the new DDR, the East German Communist state, which in the years after its founding in 1949, did not officially celebrate the old religious holidays, the Christmas markets were notable by their large-scale absence.
East Berlin’s Christmas Markets in the DDR Era
However, by the 1970s, that began to change. Markets at the scale and popularity of the pre-war ones returned to the heart of what was now East Berlin. Just as the fascists shaped the Christmas markets for their own political goals, so too did the Socialist Unity Party, as the Communist party was officially known.
The most prominent Christmas market in DDR-era Berlin was held in Alexanderplatz, a central hub of East Berlin. Unlike the ornate markets in West Berlin, the Alexanderplatz market reflected the austere aesthetics of the DDR. Stalls primarily featured practical goods, mass-produced holiday decorations, and state-approved crafts. However, there were still moments of magic: children delighted in the sight of a modestly decorated Christmas tree, and families gathered to enjoy bratwurst and warm drinks.
Despite the restrictions, the markets served as a cultural touchstone and a rare escape from the confines of DDR life. They provided an opportunity for nostalgia, evoking memories of pre-war Christmas traditions. For many East Berliners, and regardless of the intentions of the ruling Party, these markets were a symbol of resilience and a reminder of shared heritage, even amidst political division.
Traditions and Offerings
Modern Berlin Christmas markets in reunited Berlin are extremely popular and there have even been moves afoot to make them into a UNESCO Cultural Heritage object. Strolling through the markets, you’ll wooden stalls adorned with twinkling lights and garlands. Artisans sell hand-carved wooden figurines, glass ornaments, and candles, many of which are crafted using techniques passed down through generations. Food is a cornerstone of the markets, as it always was, with stalls offering warm pretzels, roasted nuts, gingerbread, and stollen, a traditional German fruitcake dusted with powdered sugar.
One of the highlights is the glühwein (mulled wine), served steaming hot in decorative mugs that guests can take home as souvenirs. When you visit, be aware that some markers are free to enter, while others charge a small fee. A few even charge a 30 of 40 Euro entrance fee, but then allow you to eat and drink as much as you can within a two-hour limit. Whichever model you prefer, when you visit a Berlin Christmas market, you’re stepping into a world of seasonal joy as well as the world of Berlin’s always gripping history.
