Welcome back to part two of the Quirky Berliner series where we aim to shine light on some of the quirks that make Berlin special so that you can quicken the time it takes to feel like a true Berliner.
In the first article we discussed Berlin’s lack of free tap water and public toilets. We also touched on the most commonly spoken language amogst expats and locals alike, how to get around the city and get into the world famous Berghain.
In this part of the series, you’ll learn about Hitler’s old airport turned playground, Berlin’s love of ice cream and vegan fare and its aversion to cashless payments and working from your laptop at a cafe.. You’ll also learn my favorite phrase in the German lexicon (Zu Verschencken) and why having one trash can is so passe. Let’s get started….
Quirk #6 – Tempelhofer Feld – Hitler’s Old Airport Turned Playground
Hitler’s old airport is now a mecca for sporty Berliners or those just wanting to soak up some sun or have a feierabend beer. There is also mini golf, a beer garden, a community garden where you can lounge, a skate park, several dog parks and a new barrier free wood panelled roof terrace (that used to be a former air traffic controller’s tower) where you can observe all the sporty Berliners below. I’m not going to lie, when I first heard about Tempelhofer Feld (or Tempelhof for short) it was from the host family I first lived with when I arrived. The man of the house was raving about how awesome it was. When I first arrived however, I was underimpressed. What was the big deal? It was just one giant windy field. Later, however, I found an apartment nearby and found myself there almost every day, rain or shine. That’s when I really started to understand what a special place it truly was – a place that allows weird Berliners to explore their niche interests like windsurfing, rollerblading, sober raving, or just laying in the grass and reading a book. In the warmer months it’s a great place to meet friends, have a BBQ, or see if your Tinder match is worth taking to dinner later in the evening. There is nothing quite like riding your bike on the former runway as the wind helps scoot you along. You’ll feel as though you might take off at any second.
Quirk #7 – Abundance of green space/parks.
This city is known for its epic parks and green spaces. Though it’s a metropolitan city with roughly 4 million people residing here, the city is quite spread out and there are green spaces everywhere, so you always feel close to nature. In fact, Berlin is recognized as one of Europe’s greenest cities, boasting over 2,500 public parks and recreational areas. I was in Lisbon recently and I had to search far and wide for a green space where I could eat a picnic lunch and put my feet in the grass. In Berlin, there are big and small green spaces in nearly every kiez.
Quirk #8 – Sun worshippers
As soon as the sun comes out (even if it’s still freezing temperatures) it’s not uncommon to see Vitamin D deprived Berliners sitting on a bench with their faces turned toward the sun as if they were lizards under a heat lamp. When I first noticed this phenomena I snickered to my friends. Since I am from Arizona, I am used to people hiding from the sun under big hats and slathering themselves in sun screen. A few years after living in Berlin however, I became a sun worshipper myself. As soon as a ray pops out, I run outside and tilt my head in its direction. I also take my Vitamin D religiously (Vitamin D deficiency is nothing to joke about!!)
How common is Vitamin D deficiency in Germany?
According to this study done in 1999, more than half of the German population were running low on Vitamin D, a nutrient that can help steer off osteoporosis, help regulate hormones and prevent depression. While many seasoned Berliners know to pop D3 especially in the gray cloudy winter months, those who have newly arrived won’t likely be up to speed and in my case, your doctor won’t bring it up unless you specifically ask. While the cost of blood work is included if you have public insurance, the Vitamin D test is not. Expect to shell out around 25 euros for the test. For two years, I struggled with various health problems (insomnia/anxiety) before my therapist suggested I get a Vitamin D test done. Sure enough, I was deficient. Especially if you are from a sunny climate, or you regularly wear a hijab for example, pay attention to your Vitamin D levels! A deficiency can be detrimental to your physical and mental wellbeing!
Quirk # 9 – I Scream for Ice Scream
Though Berlin is not exactly known for its tropical weather, Berliners love pretending like they live in a warm climate. We already shared that Berliners will act like lizards and aim their face at the sun as soon as a sunray pops out, but they will also likely attempt to dine al fresco and even queue for a scoop, yes, even in freezing temperatures. Berliners LOVE their ice cream, and if you do too, then you picked the right city to visit or live in. That also means that no matter which kiez you live in there will be a variety of ice cream shops to choose from. Every shop usually has a few vegan options as well, so if you are lactose intolerant, you’ll still be able to partake in the ice cream party. There are also some pretty tasty 100% vegan ice cream shops popping up around the city as well.
Quirk # 10 – Vegan friendly city.
Speaking of vegan ice cream, Berlin is a VERY vegan friendly city in general. Most every restaurant you find yourself in will likely have vegan alternatives and there are even establishments that are 100% vegan like Brammibal Donuts for example.
Is Berlin Vegan-friendly?
Why YES it is! Berlin is one of the top global vegan cities with over 50 fully vegan restaurants and over 300 establishments offering vegetarian and vegan choices. It even hosts Europe’s first vegan supermarket chain, Veganz. The company launched its inaugural store in Berlin’s Prenzlauer Berg district during the summer of 2011, covering an area of 250 square meters and has now expanded its reach to 26 countries and online, featuring a diverse range of approximately 165 products.
Quirk # 11- Cash is king
Though it’s slowly changing, many restaurants, stores, and clubs still don’t accept credit cards so make sure to plan ahead. Cash is still very much king here. I was in Nepal a few years ago and was shocked when I could use my card to pay at most places but still had to stop by the Geldautomat before heading to dinner with my friends in Berlin. What gives, Berlin?
Why is Berlin so cash based?
It’s not just a Berlin thing, it’s a German thing. As per the recent study conducted by Germany’s central bank, the Bundesbank, almost 60 percent of Germans prefer to use cash for their purchases.
Despite the trend in some neighboring European countries to globally to shift away from physical money (like Sweden who boasts the title of the world’s first cashless society), a significant number of Germans still appreciate the speed and convenience of cash. They believe it offers a transparent view of personal expenses and maintains transaction privacy. This may also explain why Germans have less debt than other nations. Or maybe it has something to do with the fact that the German word for «debt» (Schuld) is the same as the word «guilt». Either way, make sure to stop by the ATM before you go out on the town in Berlin.
Quirk #12 Laptop and cafes
Working on laptops in many cafes is not just looked down upon but actually forbidden. It’s not uncommon to see a sign hanging with a laptop and a slash through it in your neighborhood cafe with a passive aggressive sign that says something like “talk to each other instead.” Fortunately there are a few places that cater to digital nomads or remote workers such as Cafe Engels in Schillerkiez but expect to be corraled to the few laptop friendly tables. In other words, you won’t have free reign of the place. The other alternative is to pop into a chain like Starbucks but you’ll have to venture to Alexanderplatz and risk being mistaken for a tourist. GASP! If you show up in Berlin expecting to work wherever your heart desires, you are going to be severely disappointed. Instead, consider working at any of the various libraries around town or else fork over a membership to one of the hundreds of coworking spaces in the city.
Quirk #13- Zu verschenken
This is one of my favorite phrases in German and one of my favorite parts about living in Berlin. You wouldn’t believe the amount of free stuff you can find on the street, everything from clothes, to furniture to books, you name it I have found it on the streets of Berlin. When I had to furnish my last apartment, most of the things I furnished it with were things I found on the street. And if you ever feel like doing a little purging, you too can set out your belongings on the street with a sign that says the same. Just make sure you place them somewhere that won’t get wet should the gray skies open up, and/or wrap them in plastic bags.
Some neighborhoods even have designated closets or drop off points that you can leave unwanted items and pick up few “new” things at the same time.
If you’re a book nerd, you’ll love the free book nooks scattered around the city. The same concept applies here, take a book, leave a book.
Quirk #14 – Separating your garbage
In Berlin, and the rest of Germany, get used to having at least five bins for garbage. The bins include one for paper, glass, bio (organic/compostable), plastic, and everything else. This quirk took me quite a while to get used to but now when I go to other cities I feel so guilty if there aren’t at least four bins in my Airbnb. Furthermore Berlin also has several recycling centers around town where you can take old household items such as electronics, batteries, beat up furniture (and pretty much anything else you couldn’t zu verschenken).
In conclusion, if you’re on the path to becoming a true Berliner, Part 2 of our quirky guide is here to prep you for the eccentricities that make this city one-of-a-kind. We’ve explored everything from Hitler’s old airport, now a lively playground known as Tempelhofer Feld, to Berlin’s abundance of green spaces that keep you close to nature in a bustling metropolis. Sun worshippers are a common sight, with locals basking in even the slightest hint of sunlight. And speaking of health, Berliners love their ice cream and have a penchant for vegan fare, making the city a haven for those with plant-based diets. Cash still rules everything around Berlin, despite global trends towards a cashless society, and many places may not accept cards. So, it’s wise to keep some cash handy. On the cafe front, working on laptops is not just discouraged but often forbidden in many local spots. Consider libraries or coworking spaces if you need to get some work done. «Zu verschenken» is my favorite German phrase, embodying Berlin’s culture of sharing and finding treasures on the streets. Free book nooks and designated drop-off points for unwanted items contribute to a community ethos of reuse and sharing. Lastly, get ready to become a pro at separating your garbage – Berliners take recycling very seriously with different bins for paper, glass, organic waste, plastic, and general waste.
Embrace these quirks, and you’ll feel like a real Berliner in no time.
